Everest Base Camp.

I’m not sure when it was I decided I was going to Mt. Everest, Nepal has never been a must visit for me, and Edmon Hillary was never an idol. More realistically I think in planning for the trip my thought process was something like this (as studies Atlas):
“So I’ll fly into Delhi, then make my way down to Paki.. Shit, Nepal’s right next to India.. Shit Everest is in Nepal.. should do that then”
I brought hiking boots the next day and that was that.

I fly into Lukla (2840m), one of the highest airports in the world. The runway is a strip carved into the side of a mountain. Its also short, real short, as soon as the wheels touch the ground the pilots on the handbrake so he doesn’t concertina the thing into the rock face at the end.

Last year a pilot misjudged the landing and flew straight into the mountain, everyone was killed, the wreckage is in the jungle at the bottom.
Kathmandu Domestic Airport

Kathmandu Airport - Agni Airlines

Kathmandu Airport - Agni Airlines

Agni Airlines

Agni Airlines Himalayas

Lulka Runway.
Lukla Airport Runway - Everest Base Camp

Walking to Base Camp takes anywhere from 8-14 days, depending which way you go and how the altitude effects you.
Popular options also include hiring a Guide (so you don’t get lost), and hiring a Porter (cause your too lazy to carry your own bag).
I buy a map, and carry my own bag.

Everest Base Camp - Map

Nights are spent in Guesthouses in small villages along the way.
You cant imagine the views when waking up.
Namche Bazar - Accomodation

Bridges span one after the other and are not for the faint hearted
Everest Base Camp Trek - Suspension Bridge

Everest Base Camp Trek- Suspension Bridge

Everest Base Camp Trek- Bridge

Everest Base Camp Trek- Bridge

Everest Base Camp Trek- Bridge

This one was so shonky, I was sure the ply sheets were going to give way
Everest Base Camp Trek- Bridge

Approaching villages there’s that distinct smell of open fire places, with the addition of melting plastic bottles.
“Just to help get it started”
Everest Base Camp Trek- Village

Everest Base Camp Trek- Namche Bazar

Everest Base Camp Trek- Gorak Shep

Except once you get up above 3500m when the smell is slighlty foreign and you learn later that they burn dried up cow/yak shit because there’s no wood available.

Not My Photo

With nothing better to do for the afternoon I sit in the middle of town with my book, and watch as a small boy runs along trying to kick cows up the ass as they wonder the street, failing that he attempts to whip them with his stick.
They run into someones house through the front door.
The whole scene is quite amusing.

Everest Base Camp Trek- Cows Yaks

Acute Mountain Sickness (Altitude Sickness)
Usually occurs above 2400 meters
Symptoms – Dizziness, lack of appetite, headaches, pins and needles, fatigue.

Reality – Pens leak profusely, Camera screen trips out, Ipods die (but come back to life at sea level!).

Not My Photo

The trail..

Everest Base Camp Trek- Trail

Everest Base Camp Trek- Kovacs

Everest Base Camp Trek- Trail

Everest Base Camp Trek- Trail

Everest Base Camp Trek- Trail

Everest Base Camp Trek- Hasselblad

Everest Base Camp Trek- Pheriche Valley

Where did the world go.
Dingboche Peak 5063m

On my longest day, I walked 30+ kms from Kalar Patthar back to Debouce, a large section of which passes through the Pheriche Valley. On a slight declining gradient, frigid wind in your face, apocalyptic sky on the horizon, rock hopping small creeks and rivers along the way, the valley seems endless and it truly feels like your ‘walking the earth’.
Everest Base Camp Trek- Pheriche Valley

Base Camp 5364m.

Everest Base Camp Trek- Trail

Everest Base Camp Trek- Trail

Everest Base Camp Trek- Kovacs

Everest Base Camp Trek- Trail

Everest Base Camp Trek- Indian Expedition

Everest Base Camp Trek- Indian Expedition

A blizzard starts outside and we’re trapped in the base camp kitchen.
Everest Base Camp Trek- Kitchen

Everest Base Camp Trek- Kitchen

Everest Base Camp Trek- Kovacs

Glaciers on the way home.
Everest Base Camp Trek- Glaciers

Everest Base Camp Trek- Glaciers

Everest Base Camp Trek- Glaciers

Kalar Patthar 5550m.
For moments I almost couldn’t breath, baby step after baby step stopping every 5 mins sucking in what felt like only 40% oxygen, your head spins and a walking stick the only thing holding you up. Surely this is what it feels like to suffocate to death under an avalanche.
The top seems impossible and I nearly quit twice.
Sun Rises and the evening snow starts to melt, ascent just got that much slipperier. Finally reach the summit and my eyes fill with tears, for no reason at all beyond that I’m still breathing.
360 degree Panorama views of the Himalayas, it was totally worth it.

Everest Base Camp Trek - Kalar Patthar Kovacs

Everest Base Camp Trek- Everest Sunrise

Everest Base Camp Trek- Mt Everest Kovacs

22 Responses to “Everest Base Camp.”

  1. 1 duke street September 15, 2009 at 10:49 am

    you just left duke street lapping at your every word. amazing, dude. you’ve made it.

  2. 4 routinebitinghard September 16, 2009 at 4:03 am


  3. 5 kovacslovesbeingcoveredincatfur September 16, 2009 at 6:06 am

    You are so funny, not ha ha, more funny-amazing… That photo of you with the map is awesome…I would have started crying… and the picture of you at everest in all the prayer flags is too good.. Miss you!!!

  4. 6 Tom September 16, 2009 at 3:11 pm

    Nothing short of amazing…

  5. 7 ninja September 17, 2009 at 4:06 am

    the ninja is very proud of you. very proud.

  6. 8 EdgeRed September 17, 2009 at 7:30 am

    thats rad dude!
    killing it!

  7. 9 That Yellow Bastard September 18, 2009 at 12:05 am

    E-PIC! +
    I. Hate. Your. Stinking. Guts

  8. 10 C-Dawg September 19, 2009 at 9:59 pm

    wow thats brilliant, all of it. cant believe you’ve done all that already. i’m going to have to get tips off you for my india/nepal 2010 adventure 🙂

  9. 11 John Kovacs September 19, 2009 at 11:11 pm

    Hi Matt,
    Just arrived home after a week away at Echuca and Yarrawonga. I’m afraid I don’t have any great stories or awesome pictures to match yours. One small step for mum and dad one giant step for Matt!!!I’ve got to go now to turn the heater on – it’s 18 and mum is getting cold!!! Love Dad
    Hi Matt,
    Loved reading all about what you’ve been up-to photos are fantastic. Now for the mother thing – I hope you are being careful and looking after your own health. Have fun working with the medicos. Can’t wait to hear from you again. xXx Mum

  10. 12 Rob Ward September 22, 2009 at 1:12 am

    Great stuff Matt… but not quite as exciting as Tridec!

  11. 13 paula birch September 22, 2009 at 1:47 pm

    sorry i missed your call last night! call back!

  12. 14 Laughing Hard Crying Harder September 26, 2009 at 8:26 am

    I started reading Into The Wild today and I thought of you. Don’t eat any wild berries or burn all your money in a saucepan.

  13. 15 Glyn Jessep September 29, 2009 at 7:50 pm

    G’day Matt,

    When are you going to fess up that it was my idea to do EBC!

    Look after yourself. Glyn

  14. 16 stokan September 30, 2009 at 2:38 pm

    i am so inspired by your photography, and the way you capture your adventures.
    not jealous . . much. cant wait to see more!

  15. 17 Carly edge for life October 1, 2009 at 8:20 am

    WOW matt that is amazing. didnt know you were going to do that.

    Take care

  16. 18 Joel F October 1, 2009 at 1:04 pm

    Not bad Kovacs!

  17. 19 Sue Bentley October 3, 2009 at 1:07 pm

    Fantastic Matt!! Well done.

  18. 20 muzammil butt November 10, 2009 at 4:21 am

    i am very miss you iam in burger shop me and naz shaib

  1. 1 Spokoyno Noche Moscow! « Leave Me Here.. Trackback on February 14, 2010 at 9:56 pm
  2. 2 365 « Leave Me Here.. Trackback on September 3, 2010 at 5:46 am

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

Enter your email to stay up-to-date with new posts sent directly to your inbox.

%d bloggers like this: