7pm, in front of KGH

Kathmandu Guest House is a polished-come-chaotic type of place, smack bang in the middle of Thamel, it’s the landmark that everyone knows.
Its glory days as hub of backpacker accommodation are well over, senior citizens and Intrepid Tour groups now seem to dominate, but if you can score one of the handful of $8 rooms available, it’s still a good deal.

KGH secret rooftop that most never find.
Kathmandu Guest House Rooftop Sunset Nepal

Trekking, Sitting on the sidewalk eating Falafel, Internet Cafes, Tours, Crappy Espresso’s and your temporary circle of friends is established.
A Canadian, German, Dutch, American, Australian.
Like-attracts-like and we’re all pre tourist season, all staying too long, and all well travelled with Nepal purely an inbetween stop.
Jobs have been quit, apartments sub leased, cars sold, relationships left dangling.

Over time everyone suffers from some type of street level illness, whether its from shop owners sweeping all the dust and muck around you while you eat breakfast, the constant plumes of exhaust smoke bellowing out of cars squeezing through the streets, locals publicly hocking up and clearing their throat all day long, or simply not washing your hands properly.

In the 6 weeks I’ve been here, I’ve gone from perfectly healthy, to my eyes feeling like bricks, to having an incessant cough, general cold, swollen eye, migraine, and uncontrollable shakes.
And that excludes any number of diahareer sessions as a result of anything and everything.

But it’s nothing an extended nap and a 30min shower won’t fix.. Sitting on the bathroom floor, staring up at the water pouring down on you, it almost feels like the pain is washing away.

And no matter how sick or sorry one feels, everyone drags themself to the front of Kathmandu Guest House at 7pm to sort a dinner location, to sit around over bottles of plasticy tasting water, to eat another shitty Korma, pizza with Yak cheese, or pre melted ice-cream. Dreaming of delicacies from home that just simple don’t exist on the menu.

Dates are due, plane tickets triple-checked, luggage re-organized, and emails swapped.
Within a week the group is over but We all might see each other again ‘yeah one day/I’d love to’.

Thanks Nepal, see you again,
one day. (maybe).

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7 Responses to “7pm, in front of KGH”


  1. 1 Dikshya October 19, 2009 at 3:55 am

    You are so right about the 7pm meeting place in front of KGH! I sure hope so that we will see you once again at some point here in KTM or simply Nepal itself. 😀

  2. 2 Laughing Hard Crying Harder October 19, 2009 at 4:13 am

    Matthew Kovacs 2009 – Intrepid traveller of the year: shitting his way around the world.

    p.s diarrhoea*

    no more yak cheese for you.

  3. 3 Laughing Hard Crying Harder October 19, 2009 at 8:24 am

    Woops i forgot your ma and pa read this blog. Excuse my french? :\

  4. 4 Dixie October 21, 2009 at 2:18 pm

    Ha love that you made that the title of the post. I got a falafel wrap at the grocery store the other day and it wasn’t the same.
    But just you mentioning the clearing of the throats still makes me cringe. Could’ve done w/o that.

  5. 5 Gaylia October 27, 2009 at 10:22 am

    Well, I’m off to Nepal for the first time in a couple of days…. After all the great things I’ve read about it you’ve certainly shown another angle. Sounds like you were over it and ready to go home. Hoping I have a better time!

    • 6 niroj shrestha January 22, 2012 at 4:45 am

      yeah maybe this person is wantin to leave nepal, but at thge same time, being a nepali, and at the same time i play music on the pubs opf thamel which starts from 7pm, its great to read all this stuff, i hope this person saw me singing once in the pub around kathmandu guest house, hope to c u if u visit nepal again, namaste…..

  6. 7 vinayak July 18, 2010 at 5:39 pm

    nice to read hard to accept .. any way perspectives..


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